Store-bought candle molds only come in basic shapes like cylinders and cubes. If you want a candle shaped like a seashell, a figurine, or anything custom, you’ll need to pour your own silicone mold.
A two-pound kit of Smooth-On Mold Star 20T or OOMOO 30 costs about $30 and produces a mold that handles several hundred wax pours. Silicone captures fine texture, releases candles without spray, and works with paraffin, soy, and beeswax at their standard 160 to 180 degree pour range.
The cost pays for itself fast. By the tenth candle, you’re ahead of buying pre-made molds.
This 10-step guide walks through the full build, from sealing the mold box with plasticine clay to popping out the finished candle. If you already have molds and just need help with the wax pour, see our tutorial on how to use silicone molds.
The next section compares silicone against aluminum, polycarbonate, and polyurethane molds before getting into the build steps.
How To Make Candle Molds With Silicone In 10 Simple Steps
Before the step-by-step, a few things are worth knowing up front so you do not waste a silicone kit on your first attempt. Silicone molds cost more up front than a store-bought aluminum pan, but they pay for themselves after about ten candles and unlock shapes no rigid mold can ever match.
Why Silicone Beats Other Mold Materials
Three things make silicone the right pick for candle molds. First, it captures every single line, texture, and pore from the master object, so if you pour silicone over a seashell, the cast candle has shell ridges indistinguishable from the real thing.
Second, it releases finished candles without any mold release spray because silicone is naturally non-stick. Third, it handles repeated hot wax pours (up to several hundred pounds per mold with the better grades) without hardening or cracking the way latex and polyurethane do after 50 or so uses.
We compare the two materials head-to-head in our guide on silicone vs rubber.
Benefits Of Silicone Molds
Below are some of the benefits of silicone molds
Versatility
The versatility of silicone makes working with it easy.
Compared to stiffer substances like plastic, silicone molds are pliable and lightweight, and they are often easier to remove once a component is completely formed.
Owing to the high degree of silicone flexibility, both the mold and the produced substance are less likely to crack or chip.
You can also use custom silicone molds for complex engineering parts, holiday-themed ice cubes or confections, and any other shape.
Stability
Silicone withstands temperatures within the range of -65 to 400 degrees Celsius.
However, depending on the formulation, this range might increase or decrease, but this shouldn’t stop you from using silicone molds in the oven, freezer, or microwave.
Longevity
It’s important to remember that the life span of silicone molds can vary greatly.
The more often you cast, the more complicated or comprehensive your design will be, and the faster your mold might degrade.
Clean them with soap and water to extend their lifespan, dry them thoroughly, and then, store them flat - do not stack them unless the manufacturer says it’s okay too.
Drawbacks Of Silicone
Although working with silicone has a lot of advantages, there are also a few drawbacks to be mindful of:
- Silicone is more costly than latex and organic rubber, the price tag is almost twice as much as latex
- Though it’s flexible, if stretched too far, the silicone material will tear
- The material isn’t uniformly formulated, hence why you must buy silicone products from reputable suppliers and manufacturers
Why Silicone Over Other Mold Types
If you have shopped for candle molds before, you have seen aluminum pillar molds, polycarbonate tapers, polyurethane blocks, and rigid plastic tealight trays. All of them work for the specific shapes they are designed to hold, but they share one problem: the shape is locked in.
You can only make what the mold manufacturer decided to sell.
Silicone is different. You pour it around any object you want to reproduce, which means the only limit is what you can find, sculpt, or 3D print.
Seashells, figurines, vintage thrift-store candles, a bar of soap you liked the shape of: all of them become permanent molds in about 24 hours. The flexibility of silicone also lets you demold candles with deep undercuts (think a candle shaped like an animal with outstretched legs) that a rigid mold would never release.
The tradeoff is upfront cost. A pound of platinum-cure silicone costs more than a single pre-made aluminum pillar mold.
It starts saving you money around the tenth candle and becomes a steal by the hundredth.
Wax, Wicks, And Scent
A quick primer on the three things that go into the mold after you have made it. For wax, paraffin is cheapest and takes color the best, soy burns cleaner and holds scent longer but shrinks as it cools, and beeswax gives that warm honey glow but runs at a higher temperature than the other two.
Most beginners start with paraffin for learning and move to soy for gifts.
Wicks matter more than people realize. A too-thick wick produces sooty smoke, while a too-thin wick drowns itself in pooled wax.
The wick packaging usually lists the candle diameter it is rated for, so match it to your mold rather than guessing. Flat wicks pair with paraffin and soy, while round wicks are traditional with beeswax.
Fragrance oils go in at the pour stage, but molded candles tend to throw less scent than container candles because only the outer surface evaporates. If strong scent is your goal, container candles will always beat molded ones for throw, and it is worth knowing that before you spend a fortune on fragrance oils.
How To Make Candle Molds With Silicone
Pourable silicone RTV rubber used for mold making is one of the most suitable materials for making detailed molds.
The RTV means “Room Temperature Vulcanizing” which means that you don’t need to place it in an oven to fix it, you can wait until you mix the products.
There are a lot of different ways to make candle molds using silicone, and the “block mold method” is by far the easiest.
It involves pouring silicone into a box containing the prototype.
After this, remove it from the box once it solidifies into a rubber block, also remove the prototype from the mold, and pour the casting material into the mold, wait for it to solidify, and then extract your endproduct from the mold.
Detail replication with silicone rubber is typically perfect when correctly blended and poured.
Since silicone rubber generally doesn’t stick to anything, you can cast many parts without adding any mold releasing agents, which might fill in the tiny details and ruin the shape (or detailing) of your mold.
A Quick Glossary
Three words come up constantly in mold-making tutorials and they can be confusing on first read. The “master” or “prototype” is the original object you are copying.
The “mold” is the silicone shape you pour around the master. The “casting” or “part” is the final candle that comes out of the mold.
Once you know which word means which, the rest of the tutorial reads more cleanly.
Supplies Needed For The Project
- A model
- Silicone mold rubber
- Sealer and releasing agent
- Quick Stick Adhesive
- Optional: liquid plastic
- Plasticine clay
- Plywood or other material for the mold box
- Drill
- Screws
- Dry brush
- Mixing tool
- Mixing containers
- Putty knife, if necessary
- Scalpel or mold key knife
- Wick for candle
- Candle wax
- Parrafin bath or other equipment for melting wax
Step 1: Select A Model
Select a model to reproduce or build one, a copy of this initial model will be the final wax candle.
Many candle makers sculpt their original models with clay, wood, wax, or use computer-based alternatives like 3D printers and CNC routers to manufacture their designs.
Most of the models used are hollow, and you should fill the model with wood and clay if you want the final candle to be solid.
The molded rubber picks up every detail of the model, and the clay is also carefully smoothened out.
Step 2: Build A Mold Box
Create a mold box to make a one-piece poured block mold or pick a suitable container to put your model in.
To build mold walls with standard thickness, ensure that there is enough room between the model and the mold box walls, it would help if you left approximately 1 inch of space for the mold walls and bottom.
The mold box should be built with plywood, and before pouring in your liquid mold rubber, you must first seal the mold box which is quite porous.
Plexiglas, plastic pails, PVC pipe, Sonotubes, and melamine-laminated particleboard are good choices to consider for your mold boxes or mold containers.
Step 3: Secure The Model
The model adheres securely to the bottom board, hence when the mold rubber is poured around it, it will not float.
To adhere the model to the bottom board, use the Quick Stick Adhesive, which is a fast-setting epoxy adhesive, do not use the Simple Stick Adhesive which has a mixing ratio of 1:1 and can be set up in 3 to 5 minutes.
Also, you should build the walls of the mold box while the epoxy is curing.
Step 4: Apply Sealer & Release Agents
To the mold box, add sufficient sealers and/or release agents.
When using a non-porous mold package, consider applying various forms of release agents, and you should also provide enough time for the solvent before going on to the next steps - 1 to 2 hours is enough time.
Seal any areas where rubber can leak around the model, there may be small holes at the base of the model, so seal that region with plasticine clay which has been warmed up for easier application.
Other alternatives to plasticine clay are caulk and hot glue for sealing.
Do not forget to smoothen out the clay - the clay should be flat.
Step 5: Finish Preparing The Model
In the mold box, position the model and secure the bottom board to the walls of the mold box.
Before pouring the liquid rubber, place the mold box and model in their appropriate positions, also, use plasticine clay on the mold box’s edges to help prevent the rubber from leaking out of the box.
Step 6: Weigh, Blend And Pour The Rubber Silicone
Contamination by amines, sulfur, tin compounds, polyester resins, some 3D-printed plastics, and other materials may inhibit the treatment of platinum-curing silicone rubbers.
So ensure that these inhibitors are not present in your model and in other materials that will come in contact with the silicone.
Before pouring into a large mold, it’s best to conduct a small test treatment on your model.
After weighing out the desired amount of rubber silicone using a digital scale, mix the material thoroughly, then repeatedly scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing container.
Pour the mixed rubber carefully into the mold box.
Pour the rubber into one corner and allow it to rise, do not directly pour rubber onto the model.
The silicone rubber can normally be removed at room temperature within 4 to 5 hours, though full silicone cure times vary by rubber.
Verify your rubber’s demolding time before getting started.
Demolding too soon will cause the mold to warp permanently.
Step 7: Demolding
Carefully erase the bottom board and walls of the mold case, in this method, a putty knife will be helpful.
The mold may need to be cut to remove the model and subsequent castings, depending on the model’s type, however, to cut an irregular pattern on one side of the mold, use a scalpel to remove the model carefully.
Create a small hole in the mold’s bottom to fit in the wick later on.
Step 8: Pour Wax Into The Mold
Insert a wick through the hole created earlier, also tie a knot in the wick temporarily, and secure the wick above the mold’s pouring opening - make sure that it’s centralized.
Melt the wax with the necessary equipment and, if desired, apply colors and fragrances.
Pour the wax into the mold carefully and allow the wax to completely cool.
Step 9: Remove The Candle
Remove the candle from the mold carefully and trim the wick, as required.
In this single mold, hundreds of candles can be made.
Step 10: For The Next Casting, Prepare The Mold
You can use this silicone mold several times, to repeat the procedure, return to step nine.
Popular Silicone Molds Applications
Due to their versatility and ease of use, hobbyists and professionals alike rely on silicone molds.
Here are examples of industries and applications that manufacture their products from silicone molds:
Prototyping
In prototyping and product creation production, silicone molding is used across a wide variety of industries.
Also, the cost of silicone molds for conventional manufacturing processes such as injection molding is considerably lower than hard tools.
Casting in silicone molds is suitable for prototyping product designs or producing beta units for market testing - helps you to analyze consumers’ response to a new product.
Although 3D printing is more appropriate for rapidly producing one-off pieces, silicone molds and urethane casts are perfect for smaller parts.
Jewelry
To replicate hand-carved or 3D printed patterns in wax, jewelers use custom silicone molds, and this enables them to phase out the time-consuming labor of making wax-carved patterns for each new piece.
This also provides a significant leap in bulk production, so casting can operate on a large scale.
Since silicone molds capture a fine detail level, jewelers can produce pieces with ornate details and detailed geometries.
Market Goods
To produce many custom crafts, such as soaps and candles, manufacturers use silicone molds.
School supplies manufacturers also use silicone molds to shape products like chalk and erasers.
Tinta Crayons, a small Australian-based company, for example, uses silicone molds to create crayons with playful shapes and great detailing on the surface.
Food And Drinks
Food-grade silicone molds, including chocolates, ice pops, and lollipops, are used to shape all kinds of whimsical confections, moreover, in silicone molds, small baked goods such as muffins and cupcakes rise nicely.
And because silicone can withstand temperatures as high as 400 degrees Celsius, it’s also possible to use these molds for cooking.
Projects From DIY
To craft unique designs, independent artists and DIY enthusiasts also use these molds.
From bath bombs to dog treats, you can use silicone molds to shape or reproduce anything - the possibilities are almost infinite, and for girls, a fun silicone molding project will be to create a lifecast from their side.
Just make sure that you choose a skin-safe silicone.
How To Take Care Of Molds Made From Silicone
You can do so much more when you use a silicone mold to build your DIY project!
Proper silicone mold treatment is another big part of this, especially if you want them to last long after you have gone through the trouble of buying or manufacturing your resin silicone molds.
It’s not hard to take care of your molds, but there are a few things to remember:
- Store your silicone molds in a single flat layer, do not store them in a pile because they’ll permanently bend or warp, however, you can use a cardboard paper on top of a mold sheet to make a new storage layer to create more storage space
- Using a mold releasing agent make it easier to get castings out and extend your mold’s lifespan
- Keep your silicone molds out of direct sunlight in a dark dry place because excessive heat can cause warping or melting of the molds
- If your silicone mold is not going to be used for a while, then consider keeping a cast in the mold to ensure that it maintains its shape, also consider pouring warm candle wax into the mold if it’s an detailed mold, moreover, you can easily demolish it later
- Do not pierce the mold with holes, this will result in the mold losing its form
- Wash the mold with warm water and mild soap when done before storing it, do not clean it with solvents, and do not put it in the dishwasher either - before storing them, ensure that they are fully dry
- When applying heat to your silicone mold, be vigilant, if you don’t want the mold to warp or burn - using a heat gun makes this easier
How To Choose The Best Molds
Objective
Before buying dozens of different molds, you should be clear on the purpose of your candles.
For example, if you have a particular candle holder, it’s worth checking the width of the candle it can carry before buying a mold that is too wide.
Floating bath candles demand specific mold shapes with enough flat surface area to displace water correctly, so pay attention to the geometry of your master before pouring the silicone.
Material
Various materials, including glass, plastic, rubber, stainless steel, and silicone, are manufactured from candle molds.
The hardest choice is steel and aluminum, but most individuals tend to choose silicone molds because they are easy to manipulate and clean.
Types of Mold Sealers
To close off the mold and stop any wax leakage, sealers are used.
They come as plugs of putty, magnetic, or rubber mold, and if you’re going to make different candles, then you’ll need a putty which can always be used for other purposes.
However, some specific molds require magnetic and rubber plugs.
The Most Famous One?
Tealight and clamshell molds are a favorite among beginners because they are easy to use.
For their curious aesthetic, seasoned folks seem to prefer silicone or polyurethane molds over tealight and clamshell molds.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of silicone should I use to make candle molds?
Platinum-cure silicone rated for high heat is the best pick for candle molds since paraffin and soy waxes pour at 160 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit and you need a material that won’t soften at those temperatures. Smooth-On Mold Star 20T or OOMOO 30 both handle candle wax temps without degrading, and their simple mix ratios make them beginner-friendly.
How many candles can I pour from a single silicone mold before it wears out?
A well-made platinum-cure silicone mold can handle hundreds of candle pours before the surface starts dulling or fine details wear down, making it ideal for small-batch production. Tin-cure molds are cheaper upfront but typically give you between 20 and 50 uses before they become unreliable, so they’re better suited for hobby projects.
Can I use the same silicone mold for both soy wax and beeswax candles?
Yes, one silicone mold handles soy, beeswax, paraffin, and coconut wax without any problem since silicone doesn’t react with any of these materials. The only thing to watch is pour temperature, since beeswax pours hotter than soy and some cheap silicones can soften or warp at those higher temperatures over repeated use.
How do I release a candle from a silicone mold without damaging the shape?
Let the candle fully cool to room temperature before attempting to remove it, which usually takes four to six hours for a medium candle. Once cool, gently flex the silicone mold outward from the candle and peel it back rather than trying to pull the candle out.
Do I need a mold release spray when pouring candles into silicone molds?
No, silicone has a naturally non-stick surface, so fully cooled candles pop out without any release agent. Using sprays can actually leave a residue that dulls the finish on your candles over time, so skip them entirely and just let the candle cool completely to room temperature before flexing the mold to release it.
Final Thoughts
For anyone just getting started, Smooth-On Mold Star 20T is the easiest silicone to work with thanks to a one-to-one mix ratio and a short cure time. If your master has deep undercuts or fine detail, step up to OOMOO 30 or Dragon Skin since they capture finer features without tearing on the first demold.
Hobbyists making candles for themselves or as gifts get the most value from a single two-pound kit, usually enough silicone to make two or three small pillar molds. Small-business candle makers should invest in a five or ten-pound kit of high-temp platinum-cure silicone so they can build a mold library that handles repeated pours.
If you are new to mold-making, start with a simple cube or sphere master rather than something with fine detail. Master the pour, cure, and demold rhythm first before tackling undercuts or texture.
The tools and materials add up at first, but each mold pays for itself after a handful of finished candles. Once you have a few under your belt the process gets addictive, since you can duplicate any object with a flat base and turn it into a candle.
